The Hinds Head: ‘proper’ English pub.

Celebrity chef Heston Blumenthal’s pub, The Hinds Head in Bray-on-Thames has been named as Pub of the Year 2011 in the latest Michelin Eating Out in Pubs guide launched today (9 September).

According to the guide, this ‘proper’ English pub in Berkshire attracts plenty of drinkers to the bar and the selection of ales is given just as much thought as the wine list. The building dates back to Tudor times and, over the years, has seen some notable guests including Errol Flynn and Walt Disney; it even played host to Prince Philip’s stag night celebrations.

Medieval ambience

The rich oak furnishings, heavy beams, flag floors and log fires provide a ‘charming, almost medieval ambience’. Booking ahead for the dining room is essential but it’s the bar (which doesn’t take reservations) that provides the more atmospheric setting.

Self-taught

Born in London but raised in Buckinghamshire, owner, Heston Blumenthal is a self-taught chef who has taken cooking to new levels. He opened his own ‘research and development’ kitchen in 2004 and is often labelled as a ‘molecular gastronomist’ due to his experiments with different cooking techniques and the ‘eating’ experience. He is well-known for using low-temperature, ultra-slow cooking and water baths, and was the creator of the now ubiquitous triple-cooked chip. The Channel 4 TV series Heston’s Feasts highlighted his passion and creativeness, as well as his penchant for unique and innovative techniques.

Scotch quail’s egg.

Blumenthal’s pub menu, however, is a world away from this more radical style of cooking. His vision was to uncover long-forgotten recipes and recreate down-to-earth dishes while using up-to-date techniques. He spent time behind the scenes with food historians from the Tudor Kitchens at Hampton Court Palace and even more time perfecting his recipes. The results are seen in ‘rich, filling dishes that are big on flavour and satisfyingly gimmick-free’. You’ll find comforting British classics such as lamb shank or shepherd’s pie, historical desserts like Sussex Pond or Quaking Pudding, and a lighter bar menu featuring the likes of Scotch quail’s egg.

Pubs adapting

Commenting on this year’s guide, editor Derek Bulmer told ModernSelling.com: ‘Our guide shows that pubs are not dying, they are merely changing. The traditional drinking pub has undoubtedly been suffering but those that are making efforts with their food are flourishing. Even some of the breweries have acknowledged this and have begun recruiting talented chefs. If there is one message it is; adapt and thrive.’ 

He added: ‘We are also finding that these food-driven pubs are playing an even greater part in the local community.

Regional specialities

‘Chefs are rediscovering regional specialities and often deal directly with local farmers and many hold food-themed nights, such as pie nights or fish nights. We are pleased to see that most are also moving away from restaurant-style cooking and are now serving “proper” pub food.’

The Hinds Head, High Street, Bray-on-Thames SL6 2AB ; telephone 01628 626151 ; email info@hindsheadbray.co.uk The Michelin ‘Eating Out in Pubs’ guide is priced at £14.99 (€19.99 in Ireland).

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