The Masons Arms: French and British classics.

Fancy nipping out for a quick pub lunch or a relaxing weekend away? The Masons Arms in Knowstone, Devon, has been named Pub of the Year 2010 in the latest Michelin Eating Out in Pubs guide launched today (9 September).

Situated on the Devon and Somerset border, this 13th century inn, with its thatched roof and cosy beamed bar, is full of character. This is an area known for its hunting, fishing and shooting, and it’s not far from either the beautiful beaches of North Devon or the foothills of Exmoor.

Abundance of charm

Originally three cottages – built to house the masons as they constructed the village church of St Peter’s – it has undergone few modifications in its long life and retains an abundance of rural charm.

Part of this pub’s appeal is that it is still the village local and, as you enter its cosy, low-beamed bar you’ll often find regulars with their dogs and guns sat next to the huge fireplace, sinking pints and shooting the breeze with walkers fresh from the hills. (Hopefully, not too ‘Little Britain – Ed!)

Move through to the tasteful little lounge for an aperitif, before taking your seat in the bright rear dining room with its exquisite celestial ceiling mural and fine views over the rolling hills towards Exmoor.

Impressive background

Having spent 12 years as Michel Roux’s head chef at the three Michelin-starred Waterside Inn, Bray-on-Thames, chef-owner Mark Dodson’s grounding is about as impressive as they get. When the lure of country life proved too strong, Mark and his wife Sarah – who heads the charming front-of-house team – relocated to Devon with their three daughters; achieving a Michelin star for the pub a year later.

Pub food guide: 573 entries.

Given his background, it comes as no surprise that Mark’s cooking leans towards the classics, and he creates sophisticated French and British dishes with an understated modern edge. Produce is sourced from local farmers and growers, with the emphasis firmly on quality, and dishes are attractively presented and deliciously fresh with precise, balanced flavours that show a real understanding of ingredients.

Good pub food

Sporting a new-look red cover, this year’s guide includes 573 of the best pubs serving good food in the UK and Ireland (ten more than last year) and of these, 83 are new additions.

Commenting on this year’s guide, editor Derek Bulmer told ModernSelling.com: ‘Judging by the number of new entries we have found for this year’s guide it would seem that reports of the death of the British pub have been grossly exaggerated. Establishments that have adapted to the changing habits of their customers by offering good-quality, value-for-money food are thriving. In fact, I would go as far as to say that food could be the saviour of our pub industry – especially in rural areas.’

Quality beer and excellent wine list

Although all of the pubs featured in this year’s guide offer great food, one stood out as offering that little bit extra, according to Michelin. As well as excellent cuisine, the Masons Arms offers a combination of a welcoming atmosphere, friendly service, quality beers, an excellent wine list and ‘that certain something’ that makes it special for visitors and locals alike.

The Masons Arms, Knowstone, Devon EX36 4RY, telephone 01398 341231. The 2010 edition of Michelin’s ‘Eating Out in Pubs’ guide is launched on Wednesday 9 September, priced at £14.99 (€19.99 in Ireland).

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